Posts Tagged ‘start beekeeping’

How To Transfer Honey Bees From a Nuc To a Beehive

Wednesday, July 28th, 2010

Before you start beekeeping, you need to make sure you have all your essential beekeeping equipment ready – a beehive, protective clothing, a smoker, a hive tool, and a feeder. There are other useful tools, but these basics will be enough to get you started.

Once you have all this, then you are ready to get your bees. As a beginner beekeeper, there are several ways to get bees. Although not the cheapest option, buying a nucleus hive (or a ‘nuc’) is a great way to start. A nuc is just a small temporary hive, usually containing 5 frames with brood (young developing larvae and bees), a working queen, and about 10,000 bees. By transferring this into your beehive, your bees should get off to a great start.

So, if you decide to get a nuc, what is the procedure?

Opening a nuc box

Opening a nuc box

You need to collect your nuc in the evening, when the bees have stopped flying for the day and are all back in the box. The supplier should already have the box sealed using foam or something similar to block the entrance and keep the bees in – you do not want the bees to start flying out of the nuc when it is sitting on the back seat of your car on the way home!

Setting up the new beehive

Setting up the new beehive

 

When you get the nuc home, just place it in the exact spot where you are planning to put your hive and unblock the entrance. Remember to wear protective gear – the bees will mostly stay in the box (as it is still evening time) but the journey may have unsettled them a bit so some will fly out, and may be a little agitated.

Then just leave the bees in their nuc box for a few days and let them get used to their new surroundings. Once they have settled, you need to transfer them from the nuc box into the beehive.

Transferring a frame to the new beehive

Transferring a frame to the new beehive

 

Ideally, choose a warm sunny day when the bees are flying well – this way most of the foragers are out gathering nectar and pollen, so there will be fewer bees in the box. Move the nuc slightly to one side, and place your new beehive on the stand where the nuc was. Gently smoke the bees, and open the nuc box (using your hive tool – the lid will probably be well stuck on with propolis). Lift each frame one by one and put them into the hive.

Opinions vary about how best to position the frames in the hive. Some beekeepers keep all 5 frames with brood together, filling out the rest of the brood box with empty frames, others alternate them so you have an empty frame between each full frame of brood. Everyone has their own view, but the truth is that either way will be OK.

Once you have all the frames in the new hive, empty the remaining bees from the nuc box into the hive. If there are a few left in the box, don’t worry. Just leave it at the entrance to the hive and the bees will find their own way in. Put on the crown board, above this an empty super, and the roof.

Bee feeder inside a super

Bee feeder inside a super

To help get your bees of to a good start and encourage them to draw out the foundation, it is a good idea to feed them. If there is a heavy nectar flow in your area, this might not be needed, but it will do no harm. Make up sugar syrup (at a ratio of 1 to 1 sugar to water), put this in your feeder and put the feeder on the crown board (in the empty super). It is best to wait until the evening before feeding, because if you feed syrup when bees are flying you might encourage other bees to rob the hive.

The bees safely in their new hive

The bees safely in their new hive

 

And that is it – you are now a beekeeper! The most difficult thing now is to leave the bees alone – it is very tempting to keep opening up the hive to see what is going on! Resist this temptation, just sit back and give your bees a few days to get accustomed to their new home before you do your first inspection.

Beekeeping Video – Installing A Package Of Honeybees

Tuesday, July 27th, 2010

There are several ways to get your first bees, and one of the most popular is to get a ‘package’ of bees. If you decide to get your bees this way, then this beekeeping video should be a great help!  

It shows David Meldrum and the students of the Essex County Beekeepers’ Association as they “install a package” or set up a new hive in Andover, MA. Watch as David talks his students through the process, showing exactly step by step how he transfers the bees to their new hive.

4 Ways For The Beginner Beekeeper To Get Honey Bees

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

As a beginner beekeeper, there are several ways to get your honey bees. Each has their own advantages and disadvantages. You can

1. Get a swarm
2. Buy package bees
3. Buy a nucleus hive
4. Buy a fully established colony

1. Get a Swarm

This can be a fun way to get bees, and has the big advantage that it is free. You can just put your name down on a swarm list with your local beekeeping association, which will often give preference to beginner beekeepers. Provided you have the help of an experienced beekeeper, a swarm is easily collected and placed in your hive, and you have a ready made colony.

Swarm of honey bees ready for collection!

Swarm of honey bees ready for collection!

But there are some disadvantages with this method of getting honey bees. It is very unpredictable – you never know quite when you will get a swarm, and there will often be other people on the list also waiting for a swarm.

Because there is no brood, you have no way of judging how good the queen will be, and swarms will often need requeened as soon as possible. Equally, you have no way of knowing the disease status or temperament of the bees in a swarm, as its origin is unknown. It is also unlikely that you will get honey in your first year, although this does depend on the size of the swarm, and the time of year – the earlier the better.

2. Package Bees

Package bees on top of hive

Package bees on top of hive

Package bees consist of 2 to 3 lbs of loose bees and a queen in a separate cage, all in a specially designed box that can be sent through the mail. There will also be a can of sugar syrup for feeding during transit.  Apart from a swarm, this is the cheapest way to buy honey bees. Because of the strain of transport, the bees can sometimes be difficult to introduce to the hive (especially if the weather is bad), but generally this is a relatively easy way to start beekeeping.

The drawback is that there is no brood, so no way to assess the queen. No brood also means that it will take longer for the bees to get properly established and build up in numbers. This may mean no honey in the first year, but again will depend on how early you get your bees and the nectar flow in your area.
Click here to watch a video showing package bees being installed.

3. Nucleus colony

Moving the frames from a nuc

Moving the frames from a nuc

A nucleus colony (or ‘nuc’) is just a small temporary hive, usually containing 4 or 5 brood frames. It will contain a working queen, about 10,000 worker bees and plenty of brood, honey and pollen. You will usually collect your nuc locally, so the bees will definitely be suited to your area – a real advantage.

The queen is a nuc is usually new, and you will be able to see by looking at the brood just how productive the queen is. By transferring this into your beehive, your bees should get off to a great start, and you should have a good chance of honey in your first year.

The main disadvantage is, because you are buying an established colony (albeit a small one) this is a more expensive way to get started than just getting loose honey bees.

4. Fully established colony.

Buying an existing colony is the most expensive option, although do remember that you will not need to buy a new hive. The main advantage of this is that you will hit the ground running. The colony will already be fully established, with a full box of brood and stores, so you are much more likely to get honey in the first season.

Apart from the cost, there can potentially be problems with disease, and the queen will probably be older so may be reaching the end of her productive life. Also, as the hive is used it may need replacement parts sooner.

If you do decide to go down this route to start beekeeping, get an experienced beekeeper to check out the colony for any problems before you buy.

Start Beekeeping in 2010

Monday, January 18th, 2010

So we are into a new decade, and what better time to start beekeeping? There are lots of reasons to start beekeeping now. Beekeeping is fascinating. It is a great way to get back in touch with nature, and a great way to get away from the stresses and strains of everyday life. If you have a garden, bees are the best pollinators there are, and you’ll see a real difference in your plants and flowers. Bees are under threat right now and really could use some help. And of course, all that delicious honey.

 If you are thinking of starting beekeeping in spring or summer 2010, then the time to do something about it is now – by May or June it will really be too late for this year. Although you’ll probably not get your bees until then, you do need to put in a bit of groundwork now.

Bees can be difficult to source. This is partly because of the decline in bee numbers (mainly caused by colony collapse disorder), and partly because beekeeping is becoming more popular. Supply is down, demand is up, so you have to get in quick. If you are buying packaged bees, they will most likely be delivered in April or May. To be sure to get them before they are sold out, you need to get your order in now.

Nucleus hives will usually be available a bit later (May or June) but will also be scarce, so again if you want a nuc get your order in now. If you are hoping to get a swarm from your local beekeeping association, it will be first come first served – get your name onto the list right away.

While you are waiting for your bees, use the time to get ready for their arrival. Choose a spot for your beehive. You do not need a lot of space, but you do want somewhere that is reasonably dry, sheltered, and undisturbed. Once bees get accustomed to their new home, they will follow the same flight path as they travel to and from the hive. Position your hive so that their path does not interfere with people (especially your neighbors).

Do lots of reading about beekeeping – Beekeeping Made Easy is a good starter guide, and there are many other beekeeping books  to choose from. Decide which type of beehive you want to use. If you are going to build you own hive  (which is less expensive and great way to learn about the different parts of the hive), get the plans and materials and assemble it in good time.  Learn about the equipment you will need, and buy the essentials.

If there is one, join the local beekeeping association or group, and take a beginner beekeeping class. Beekeepers are generally very generous with their time and will happily share their knowledge with others interested in beekeeping – you will really benefit from their experience.

During the first few weeks after your bees arrive, the support of more experienced beekeepers will be especially welcome. Bees, like all living creatures, can behave in unexpected ways and you will undoubtedly encounter some problems.

But ask any beekeeper, the rewards of beekeeping outweigh these hundredfold.