Category: Beekeeping

Raw Honey Versus the Honey Most People Know

Those familiar with the Bible have most certainly heard of Canaan. It was known best as the land of milk and honey. What do milk and honey have in common? Both of these elements in their purest states are unpasteurized.

Pasteurization was named in 1862, and was realized as a way to kill bacteria that accelerate spoiling of consumable goods. This is done by heat treating the edibles. The majority of goods found in the market today have been pasteurized in order to extend their shelf life.

Unfortunately, this process can also cause the disruption of nutrients that are found in the natural byproduct of the animals. For years we have been stripping these nutrients in an effort to reduce spoilage and possible disease contamination, but most recently an effort has been made to go back to products found in a more natural state in order to reap their full benefits.

Some foods are clearly labeled as pasteurized, while others may need closer inspection of the label to determine what they are. One of these foods that needs extra consideration is honey.

There is a lot of work done by the bees in the manufacturing of honey. To begin, the worker bees will fly out as far as four miles from the hive in search of some local nectar. When the bee finds a flower, she will gather nectar and store it in her “honey stomach.”

Upon returning to the hive, the contents of the worker bees secondary stomach is removed or sucked out by a house bee. The house bee chemically breaks down the polysaccharides of the nectar into some more simple sugars. This makes the nectar more easily digestible and results in honey that is spread throughout the honeycombs.

The bees have processed this sugar in a way to make it  less vulnerable to bacteria within the hive as well. The bees will go one step further in their preservation process by fanning the honey with their wings to reduce it’s moisture content – making it even less susceptible to bacteria. Honey is then sealed with a protective beeswax and kept until it is ready for consumption.

In this still pure state, the honey is packed with nutrients, antioxidants, and is an amazing energy source. In the United States, it is quite common for honey manufacturers to pasteurize the honey that is collected in an effort to destroy bacteria and prevent fermentation by unseen yeasts. This is done to help increase the shelf life of the sweet syrup, but as a side effect it removes additional nutrients that are beneficial to humans.

How do you know the condition of the honey you have purchased? Unprocessed honey will be be labeled at 100 percent raw. You can obtain a fairly long shelf life with raw honey as long as you keep it stored under ideal conditions.

The bees have worked hard already to provide a product that is most beneficial in it’s pure state. Next time you go shopping for honey, do have a good look at the label.  Even better, keep your own bees and then you can be sure to have truly raw honey.

Beekeeping Courses

Beekeeping is quite easy when you know how, but to start with there is a lot to learn and it can all be quite daunting. While it is true that the best way to really learn how to do something is to actually do it for yourself, it definitely is a good idea to get as much information as possible about your new hobby before you start beekeeping. One of the best ways to do this is by taking one of the many beekeeping courses available.

There are dozens of beekeeping courses held all around the country, especially in the spring time (the best time to start keeping bees). To find one near you, search on the internet for beekeeping courses in your area – you’ll be surprised how many you find.

Rather than doing the work yourself, if you ‘tweet’, then follow us on Twitter – links to all the beekeeping courses we come across are posted here. Or, if you are on Facebook, become a fan of the BestBeekeeping page (details of beekeeping courses are posted here too).

Alternatively, get in touch with your local beekeeping association, which should have details of all local courses being held, and will be only too willing to help beginner beekeepers.

As well as being a good way to learn, actually going to beekeeping classes is a great way to meet others interested in taking up the hobby. You would be surprised how many great friendships have been formed on beekeeping courses! And it is very useful to have someone with experience to clarify any issues you are unsure about.

In the meantime, why not sign up for our free beekeeping course? It includes lots of information for the beginner beekeeper, including the first steps you need to take before getting bees, what equipment you’ll need, the best place for your hive, bee pests and diseases to watch out for (and how to avoid them), and how to harvest all that delicious honey!

It’s free, so why not subscribe now?

Top Bar Beekeeping – Good For The Bees

Top bar beekeeping is beekeeping using top bar hives (or Warre hives, which are simply vertical top bar hives). There are two main types of beehives used by hobby beekeepers – ‘conventional’ modern beehives, based on the Langstroth hive, and top bar hives. Although Langstroth type hives are still the most common, top bar beekeeping is becoming more and more popular.

So what is so good about top bar beekeeping? The strongest argument is that it is good for the bees.

The fundamental difference between the top bar hive and a Langstroth hive is that the top bar hive is frameless, so the bees always have to draw their own honeycomb. There is no pre-printed, one size fits all wax foundation used.

The disadvantage of this is that the bees have to make more wax (and so as a consequence will make less honey). But there are real advantages.

In top bar beekeeping, bees will make the comb exactly as they want it – not just the way the beekeeper wants it. It must be remembered that the Langstroth hive was invented to make life easier (and the bees more productive) for the beekeeper, not for the benefit of the bees. Bees are perfectly happy in a more natural setting (such as a hollow in a tree), and advocates of top bar beekeeping argue that the top bar hive is much closer to what nature intended.

Also, the foundation wax used in frames for Langstroth hives is recycled wax from other beehives. While recycling is normally good, in this case the recycled wax will often contain high amounts of chemicals and pesticides – particularly since most of it comes from commercial beehives.

In a recent Pennsylvania State University study, 87 types of pesticides were found in beeswax, with up to 39 different detections in a single sample. None of this contaminated wax is introduced to the hive in top bar beekeeping, as all the wax is ‘freshly’ made by the bees.

Another advantage of top bar beekeeping is the shape of the top bar hive – trapezoidal, with sloped sides. This allows the bees to make their comb in a ‘parabolic’ shape that comes naturally to them – again, as they would in the wild.

Top bar beekeeping is not for everyone. If your main aim is maximize honey production, then Langstroth hives will be more suitable. But if you are interested in becoming a ‘natural’ beekeeper, then top bar beekeeping could be for you.

Beekeeping Video – How to Check Your Hive for Sealed Brood, Eggs and Larvae.

Beekeeping videos are a great way to see exactly what experienced beekeepers are looking for when they open their hives. Here’s a video from well known Illionis beekeeper David Burns.

In mid March he checked this hive and there was no brood, but now, as you can see in the video, the queen is working very hard & there is lots of brood – exactly what you want to see at this time of year.

As always, please leave your comments below.

Beekeeping And The Varroa Mite

As a beekeeper, you have many pests and diseases to watch out for. One which is potentially very serious is the varroa mite. It is now so widespread that if you keep bees, you are almost certain to get varroa mite sooner or later. Although this has still to be proved, it is thought that varroa could be one of the stress factors causing colony collapse disorder (CCD).

Untreated colonies will eventually die out, so once you have varroa, you must take action. Although you can never totally eliminate the varroa mites from your colony, with good beekeeping practice you can keep them at manageable levels.

 What exactly is varroa?

Varroa mite

Varroa mite

The varroa mite, or Varroa destructor to give it its proper name, is an external parasite of honey bees. They are very small, measuring between 1.1 and 1.7 mm (about 4/100 to 7/100 of an inch), and were originally found on Asian honey bees. Because of the shorter life cycle of this species of bee, the varroa were never able to get above a certain level of infestation, so the mite did not cause serious damage to these bees.

Varroa mite on a bee

 

 

However, when the inevitable happened and the varroa migrated to the Western honey bee, it was not able to cope with the infestation. The Western honey bee does not have the same natural defences as the Asian bee, so once mites get established in a colony, they soon get to levels which can do real damage.

 

 

 

What harm do varroa do?


At low infestation levels, the mites do not really do any harm and the bees can function as normal. But as varroa numbers rise, the colony can be severely damaged and will eventually die out.

Honey bees with deformed wings caused by varroa

Honey bees with deformed wings caused by varroa

Varroa feed on the blood of both developing bees (brood) and adult bees. This weakens the bees, and can lead to deformities in growing brood. The mites also spread harmful pathogens and viruses as they transfer from one bee to another.

 

What methods are available to treat for varroa?


There are 2 main methods of control – chemical controls, and management methods. Chemical control is basically the use of varroacides, various chemical sprays or treatments designed to kill the mites.

Many beekeepers (particularly hobby beekeepers) are uneasy about using chemicals in their hives. In any case, largely because the chemical methods were overused, varroa are now becoming resistant to the main ingredient (pyrethroids), particularly in the United States, so management methods are really the only option left.

Various management techniques exist to help keep the number of mites to an acceptable level, without the use of chemicals. Natural varroa management methods are more labour intensive, but when used properly can give good results.

Varroa mites on a varroa floor tray

 

One method is the use of open mesh floors, so as the mites fall out of the hive they are unable to return. As they can only survive for a few days without feeding of a bee, the ones that fall out will die.

Another natural mite control method is to dust the bees with icing sugar. This encourages the bees to clean each other, and this extra cleaning will remove a lot of the mites. Combined with the open mesh floors, many beekeepers have had good results with this technique.

For more experienced beekeepers, there are other methods involving the removal of drone brood (which is infested with varroa), or creating an artificial swarm and so leaving the varroa infested brood behind.

Varroa mites are a problem, but do not let this put you off! With good management this parasite can be kept under control, and your bees will thrive.

 

[All images courtesy www.cornwallhoney.com]